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Archives - Banff Mountain Summit

2000

Reinhold Messner
(Italy)

One of the most famous and influential climbers in the world today, Reinhold Messner has been climbing since he was five years old. He grew up in Villnöss in the St. Reinhold Messner Magdalena valley of South Tyrol, which he has described as a childhood paradise. Reinhold and his younger brother Günther would share a helmet on their increasingly adventurous rock climbing forays.

By the age of twenty, he had climbed most of the hardest routes in the Dolomites and the Western Alps and had begun to formulate his philosophy of clean climbing. Despite Günther's death on their first visit to the Himalaya, Reinhold saw no cause to compromise his dedication to lightweight alpine-style mountaineering. In succession, he made a swift two-man ascent of a 28000 footer (Hidden Peak with Peter Habeler), an oxygen-free ascent of Everest, then solo ascents of both Nanga Parbat and Everest. He was the first man to climb all fourteen 8000-metre peaks, but considers the first traverse of two of these in a single expedition - Gasherbrums I and II, with Hans Kammerlander in 1984 - as his supreme Himalayan achievement. In recent years, Reinhold Messner has become absorbed with lightweight polar expeditions.

 

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