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Archives - Banff Mountain Summit

2000

Todd Skinner
(United States)

Todd Skinner is one of the most diversely accomplished rock climbers of his generation. His achievements have been documented in film and magazines in eight languages. He has made more than 300 first ascents in 26 countries around the world and has Todd Skinner established new climbs at the highest level of difficulty. He relishes the challenge of all aspects of rock climbing, from bouldering to Himalayan peaks, but most of all dreams about Big Walls that may be free-climbed in all corners of the globe.

Todd's climbing highlights include the first free ascent of the Salathe Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park; the first free ascent of the north face of Mt. Hooker in the Wind River Range; the first free ascent of the Proboscis Wall in the Cirque of the Unclimbables in the Yukon Territories; the first free ascent of the Northwest Direct Route on Half Dome, Yosemite National Park; the first free ascent of the east face of Trango Tower in Pakistan's Karakorum Himalayas (the first grade 7 free climb in the world). Skinner also has the first free ascent of a new route on Kaga Pamari, Hand of Fatima Group, Mali, West Africa, and the first free ascent of a new route, War and Poetry, on Ulamertorsuaq, in the Cape Farewell region of Greenland.

Skinner's accomplishments have been covered by periodicals including National Geographic (cover feature on Nameless Tower April 1996 and article on Vietnam December 1997), Life Magazine, Outside Magazine, USA Today, Climbing, Rock and Ice, and the premier issue of National Geographic Adventure, April 1999. His expeditions to Pakistan, Vietnam, and Mali have been featured on the Outdoor Life Channel. His expedition to Greenland will be an Outdoor Life Channel feature this fall. His expedition to Aritiyope, an Amazon big wall in Venezuela, was featured on ESPN. Todd was invited to be one of three adventurers included in National Geographic's first Live from National Geographic lecture program held outside of Washington D.C.

Todd has been at the forefront of the development of free climbing in the United States for the last 20 years and continues to believe the future of the sport lies in free climbing on bigger walls in remote corners of the world. Todd always has at least five years of plans on the drawing board and is most energized by dreaming of first free ascents in unexplored regions and unknown ranges.

 

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