Julie-Ann Clyma

Originally from New Zealand, Julie-Ann Clyma travelled to Great Britain in 1985 and took up residence there following her marriage to Roger Payne. In early 2002, she moved to Switzerland, where she is working as a mountain guide and completing a Ph.D. thesis on factors affecting male fertility. Clyma writes regularly for specialist mountain journals and magazines, and her photographs have been used by major publishing houses, the climbing press, equipment manufacturers and advertising agencies. She has worked on expedition film projects and climbing-technique videos.

Clyma’s rock-climbing background includes extensive climbing in New Zealand, Great Britain and Europe. She has considerable winter climbing experience in Scotland, and 21 seasons of alpine climbing, including a first winter ascent on Mount Cook’s south face. Her 17 expeditions to the greater ranges (12 as expedition leader) have encompassed trips to Alaska, Peru, Kazakhstan, Pakistan, Nepal and India. Expedition highlights include the first British/N.Z. ascents of Khan Tengri (7010 m) and Pobeda (7435 m); the first British/N.Z. and first alpine-style ascent of Nanda Devi East (7434 m); attempts on Broad Peak (8047 m) and K2 (8611 m) which involved a two-year development project leading to the installation of two village micro-hydroelectricity schemes; and two attempts on the North Face of Changabang (6848 m).